By Catharine L. Kaufman—a.k.a. The Kitchen Shrink

Brilliant harvest colors light up the fall and winter months with riotous foliage in woods and gardens and a mouthwatering cornucopia of fruits and vegetables spilling from bins and shelves in grocery stores and farmers’ markets.

Displays of gold, orange, burgundy, red and yellow squashes with their quirky shapes and textures are enough to inspire painters, sculptors, fashion trends and above all, the culinary arts. Smooth-skinned and warty, striped and speckled, cylindrical and disk-shaped, dwarf to giant, the versatile gourd dazzles eyes and sends imaginations roaming from decorative dinner table centerpieces to a hollowed pumpkin shell filled with steaming soup made of its own original, baked, simmered, whipped, herbed, spiced and blended content.

So many varieties of squash exist, in fact, with such a wide range of flavors and textures, that their recipes could fill a whole cookbook. In fact, nothing short of dedicating an entire column to this plant group could do it justice. Here, therefore, is a line-up of who’s who in the squash world, along with a guided tour of their qualities and uses to help you choose your preferences, without going out of your gourd. (Sorry about the pun—you’re free to groan.)
In answer to a curious fellow grocery shopper who recently peered into my cart and wanted to know how I planned to cook such an intimidating array of squashes, I dished out a quick summary of their seasons, characteristics and uses. Our brief squash schmooze covered the bi-seasonal categorization of gourds and a summary of their qualities and uses—along the following lines:

(a) The more fragile summer squashes distinguished by their thin and edible skin, small seeds and tendency to be picked before fully ripe, count zucchini, pattypan and yellow crookneck among them.

(b) Winter squashes (which actually make their colorful entrance in the fall) are known for their hard (inedible) shells; more robust flavors and a sturdy nature that lets them mature before being picked. These include butternut, spaghetti and delicata squashes, as well as the popular pumpkin.

(c) For better quality and to experience the true, nature-created flavor of these remarkable veggies, choose organic ones. They are plentiful, seldom more expensive than conventionally grown versions, but even at a few pennies more, well worth the difference.

, a marvel of nature’s artistic architecture, is one of my favorites for both its flavor and health benefits. Weighing in at one to two pounds and about six inches in circumference, it is a decorative marvel with sharply sculpted ridges, a pointy bottom and forest green skin that is often splashed in places with touches of golden yellow.
Split it from stem to peaked base—a well-aimed cleaver is best, though a sharp knife and some muscle works, too—scoop out the seeds (clean and toast them separately if you are ready for a delicious and healthy nibble), sprinkle with olive oil (or brush with a small amount of butter if your diet allows dairy and cholesterol) and bake to bring out its sweetness and until it is soft on your testing fork. Some people sprinkle sea salt before baking, others add pepper, garlic (powdered or fresh sliced) or squeeze fresh lemon on its golden flesh. My advice, try it first without seasoning—at least you’ll become familiar with its natural taste.

Dina, our FreeRangeClub editor, boils the halved and pitted acorn squash in spring water (open face down) until soft, scoops it out of the shell, purées and mixes it with dried cranberries, chocolate sauce, a couple of soup spoons of unsweetened whipped cream (omit if cholesterol is a problem), and a splash of brandy or rum (optional) and tops each portion with a dollop of whipped cream (unless omitted as indicated above), to create a desert that looks and tastes just like a rich chocolate mousse and has fooled all her guests so far. It’s a winner. (Click on this site’s “Recipes With Pizzazz” for other goodies.)

Banana Squash is the big mama of gourds, a sausage-shaped plant that measures an average 20 inches in length and tops the scale at 12 pounds. As a nod to smaller households, it is often sold by grocery stores in prepackaged chunks of various sizes. The banana squash comes in designer shades of blue, orange and peach and the yellow hues of its namesake fruit. The creamy orange flesh is in itself nature’s divine dessert, which instantly adds a fruity and buttery flavor to any recipe. Bake or steam this squash for a milder flavor, or sauté slices in olive oil (as you would plantains) and serve as a Latin side dish.

Butternut Squash, the beige-colored, bell-shaped beauty, has a thin enough skin to make it easy to peel down to its sweet, golden flesh. Baking enhances its nutty, fragrant taste (similar to that of a sweet potato), which lends itself to be topped by either a maple-pecan crust, melted herb goat cheese or panko bread crumbs. It can also be pureed and added to soups, bread puddings, muffins, soufflés, custards and pies.

Delicata Squash—a.k.a. peanut or bohemian squash—has a tasty, creamy flesh reminiscent of the sweet potato. What’s more, it also comes in an heirloom variety that has—after 75 years of being in obscurity—recently resurfaced as a culinary delicacy on cooking shows and in cookbooks. Produce mongers blame this neglect on the plant’s thin, delicate skin, which made it too fragile to travel. The delicata releases its full flavor when baked like a potato, and with its deliciously edible skin, not a morsel of it is wasted.

Spaghetti Squash—Another one of nature’s wonders that mimics its pasta namesake, this oval, melon-shaped squash is also known as noodle squash and squaghetti for a texture that can be fork-fluffed into spaghetti-like strands when it is cooked. Rake out the golden strands and top with marinara sauce, or use as a high-fiber side dish. It’s an ideal substitute for people with gluten or grain allergies, such as Celiac disease.
Hubbard Squash is the rare produce I tend to avoid because it is rather bulky and often has a bitter aftertaste. Although your taste buds might find it pleasing… Far be it from me to discourage some culinary experimentation.

Turban Squash is another plant I prefer more for its decorative attributes as either a table centerpiece or a ramekin for fall soups. Still, as above, it’s possible that you prefer to find out for yourself.

Squashes are a powerhouse of nutrients, especially the yellow and orange pulp of the winter gourds, packed with vitamins A, B2 and C, niacin, potassium, fiber, magnesium and iron. Be picky and make sure the winter squash you choose is firm, has a good heft when palmed, has no cuts, cracks or punctures and especially no soft or moldy spots.

Summer squashes should be firm and smooth without blemishes or nicks. It is an economical choice since the entire plant is edible, including the skin and seeds. You can steam, sauté, stuff or stir-fry the zucchinis, yellow crooknecks and starbursts with equally delicious results. For a more tantalizing dish, try the savory and spicy fall ratatouille recipe below, which could be whipped up and enjoyed practically year-round.

Savory Squash Ratatouille

1/3 cup of olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 red onion, diced
2 zucchini, trimmed, sliced in coins
2 yellow crookneck, trimmed, sliced in coins
1 starburst squash, cubed
3 tablespoons of unbleached flour
1 red and 1 green pepper, sliced in strips
6 ripe tomatoes, (I prefer heirlooms), sliced
1 tablespoon of capers
Sea salt and cayenne pepper to taste

In a large skillet, heat the oil on medium and sauté the onion and garlic until tender.
Flour the squash and add to the skillet, along with the peppers. Cover and simmer until squash is soft—adding a splash of organic vegetable broth if needed, to prevent frying. When squash is almost soft, uncover and add the tomatoes, continue simmering until the ratatouille thickens. Season with salt, cayenne and capers and cook for another 10 minutes. Serve hot or cold.