By Catharine L. Kaufman—a.k.a. The Kitchen Shrink

Brilliant harvest colors light up the fall and winter months with riotous foliage in woods and gardens and a mouthwatering cornucopia of fruits and vegetables spilling from bins and shelves in grocery stores and farmers’ markets.

Displays of gold, orange, burgundy, red and yellow squashes with their quirky shapes and textures are enough to inspire painters, sculptors, fashion trends and above all, the culinary arts. Smooth-skinned and warty, striped and speckled, cylindrical and disk-shaped, dwarf to giant, the versatile gourd dazzles eyes and sends imaginations roaming from decorative dinner table centerpieces to a hollowed pumpkin shell filled with steaming soup made of its own original, baked, simmered, whipped, herbed, spiced and blended content.

So many varieties of squash exist, in fact, with such a wide range of flavors and textures, that their recipes could fill a whole cookbook. In fact, nothing short of dedicating an entire column to this plant group could do it justice. Here, therefore, is a line-up of who’s who in the squash world, along with a guided tour of their qualities and uses to help you choose your preferences, without going out of your gourd. (Sorry about the pun—you’re free to groan.)
In answer to a curious fellow grocery shopper who recently peered into my cart and wanted to know how I planned to cook such an intimidating array of squashes, I dished out a quick summary of their seasons, characteristics and uses. Our brief squash schmooze covered the bi-seasonal categorization of gourds and a summary of their qualities and uses—along the following lines:

(a) The more fragile summer squashes distinguished by their thin and edible skin, small seeds and tendency to be picked before fully ripe, count zucchini, pattypan and yellow crookneck among them.

(b) Winter squashes (which actually make their colorful entrance in the fall) are known for their hard (inedible) shells; more robust flavors and a sturdy nature that lets them mature before being picked. These include butternut, spaghetti and delicata squashes, as well as the popular pumpkin.

(c) For better quality and to experience the true, nature-created flavor of these remarkable veggies, choose organic ones. They are plentiful, seldom more expensive than conventionally grown versions, but even at a few pennies more, well worth the difference.

, a marvel of nature’s artistic architecture, is one of my favorites for both its flavor and health benefits. Weighing in at one to two pounds and about six inches in circumference, it is a decorative marvel with sharply sculpted ridges, a pointy bottom and forest green skin that is often splashed in places with touches of golden yellow.
Split it from stem to peaked base—a well-aimed cleaver is best, though a sharp knife and some muscle works, too—scoop out the seeds (clean and toast them separately if you are ready for a delicious and healthy nibble), sprinkle with olive oil (or brush with a small amount of butter if your diet allows dairy and cholesterol) and bake to bring out its sweetness and until it is soft on your testing fork. Some people sprinkle sea salt before baking, others add pepper, garlic (powdered or fresh sliced) or squeeze fresh lemon on its golden flesh. My advice, try it first without seasoning—at least you’ll become familiar with its natural taste.

Dina, our FreeRangeClub editor, boils the halved and pitted acorn squash in spring water (open face down) until soft, scoops it out of the shell, purées and mixes it with dried cranberries, chocolate sauce, a couple of soup spoons of unsweetened whipped cream (omit if cholesterol is a problem), and a splash of brandy or rum (optional) and tops each portion with a dollop of whipped cream (unless omitted as indicated above), to create a desert that looks and tastes just like a rich chocolate mousse and has fooled all her guests so far. It’s a winner. (Click on this site’s “Recipes With Pizzazz” for other goodies.)

Banana Squash is the big mama of gourds, a sausage-shaped plant that measures an average 20 inches in length and tops the scale at 12 pounds. As a nod to smaller households, it is often sold by grocery stores in prepackaged chunks of various sizes. The banana squash comes in designer shades of blue, orange and peach and the yellow hues of its namesake fruit. The creamy orange flesh is in itself nature’s divine dessert, which instantly adds a fruity and buttery flavor to any recipe. Bake or steam this squash for a milder flavor, or sauté slices in olive oil (as you would plantains) and serve as a Latin side dish.

Butternut Squash, the beige-colored, bell-shaped beauty, has a thin enough skin to make it easy to peel down to its sweet, golden flesh. Baking enhances its nutty, fragrant taste (similar to that of a sweet potato), which lends itself to be topped by either a maple-pecan crust, melted herb goat cheese or panko bread crumbs. It can also be pureed and added to soups, bread puddings, muffins, soufflés, custards and pies.

Delicata Squash—a.k.a. peanut or bohemian squash—has a tasty, creamy flesh reminiscent of the sweet potato. What’s more, it also comes in an heirloom variety that has—after 75 years of being in obscurity—recently resurfaced as a culinary delicacy on cooking shows and in cookbooks. Produce mongers blame this neglect on the plant’s thin, delicate skin, which made it too fragile to travel. The delicata releases its full flavor when baked like a potato, and with its deliciously edible skin, not a morsel of it is wasted.

Spaghetti Squash—Another one of nature’s wonders that mimics its pasta namesake, this oval, melon-shaped squash is also known as noodle squash and squaghetti for a texture that can be fork-fluffed into spaghetti-like strands when it is cooked. Rake out the golden strands and top with marinara sauce, or use as a high-fiber side dish. It’s an ideal substitute for people with gluten or grain allergies, such as Celiac disease.
Hubbard Squash is the rare produce I tend to avoid because it is rather bulky and often has a bitter aftertaste. Although your taste buds might find it pleasing… Far be it from me to discourage some culinary experimentation.

Turban Squash is another plant I prefer more for its decorative attributes as either a table centerpiece or a ramekin for fall soups. Still, as above, it’s possible that you prefer to find out for yourself.

Squashes are a powerhouse of nutrients, especially the yellow and orange pulp of the winter gourds, packed with vitamins A, B2 and C, niacin, potassium, fiber, magnesium and iron. Be picky and make sure the winter squash you choose is firm, has a good heft when palmed, has no cuts, cracks or punctures and especially no soft or moldy spots.

Summer squashes should be firm and smooth without blemishes or nicks. It is an economical choice since the entire plant is edible, including the skin and seeds. You can steam, sauté, stuff or stir-fry the zucchinis, yellow crooknecks and starbursts with equally delicious results. For a more tantalizing dish, try the savory and spicy fall ratatouille recipe below, which could be whipped up and enjoyed practically year-round.

Savory Squash Ratatouille

1/3 cup of olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 red onion, diced
2 zucchini, trimmed, sliced in coins
2 yellow crookneck, trimmed, sliced in coins
1 starburst squash, cubed
3 tablespoons of unbleached flour
1 red and 1 green pepper, sliced in strips
6 ripe tomatoes, (I prefer heirlooms), sliced
1 tablespoon of capers
Sea salt and cayenne pepper to taste

In a large skillet, heat the oil on medium and sauté the onion and garlic until tender.
Flour the squash and add to the skillet, along with the peppers. Cover and simmer until squash is soft—adding a splash of organic vegetable broth if needed, to prevent frying. When squash is almost soft, uncover and add the tomatoes, continue simmering until the ratatouille thickens. Season with salt, cayenne and capers and cook for another 10 minutes. Serve hot or cold.

1/3 cup of olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 red onion, diced
2 zucchini, trimmed, sliced in coins
2 yellow crookneck, trimmed, sliced in coins
1 starburst squash, cubed
3 tablespoons of unbleached flour
1 red and 1 green pepper, sliced in strips
6 ripe tomatoes, (I prefer heirlooms), sliced
1 tablespoon of capers
Sea salt and cayenne pepper to taste

In a large skillet, heat the oil on medium and sauté the onion and garlic until tender.
Flour the squash and add to the skillet, along with the peppers. Cover and simmer until squash is soft—adding a splash of organic vegetable broth if needed, to prevent frying. When squash is almost soft, uncover and add the tomatoes, continue simmering until the ratatouille thickens. Season with salt, cayenne and capers and cook for another 10 minutes. Serve hot or cold.

Serves 4 to 6

1)    Rinse briefly under cold water your freshly bought 4 slices of salmon filet (1 and ½ to 2 inches wide), or cross-cut salmon steak. Place on a glass, porcelain or other non-porous plate, cover with plastic wrap and store in the coldest part of your refrigerator.

2)    VEGGIE INGREDIENTS FOR POACHING LIQUID: Wash well and chop or slice the following, placing each vegetable into a separate bowl or plate until they are all ready to be cooked. While the onion, garlic, fennel, seaweed or sea-vegetable stalks and tomato are required, the other veggies are just suggestions and may be replaced by ones you prefer—or are available. Fennel neutralizes fishy taste (if any) and enriches the flavor with its dill and anise fragrance.

• • • 

      4)    POACHING PROCESS:  In a big skillet or pot,
      a)    sauté chopped onions on low heat in the olive oil
      b)    when they start to get glassy, add chopped garlic & sauté for 1/2 a minute
      c)    add carrots and Worcestershire and soy sauces and mix for a few seconds, then add hot water. Cook for 2 minutes
      d)    add all the rest of the veggies, mix and sauté about 5 seconds—but make sure heat is low enough and there is plenty of moisture in the mix to prevent burning—if necessary, a splash of water can be added to prevent that

      e)    add the turmeric, sweet red paprika, ginger, cayenne, thyme, lemon juice and zest—add more water, if needed, to avoid burning—cook on medium for 1-2 minutes, then reduce heat to Low and simmer for 10 more minutes or until veggies are beginning to soften
      f)      add enough water to almost cover the salmon that you WILL BE placing into this poaching liquid, cook for 10 seconds and
      g)    add the salmon—skin side down
      h)    cover skillet or pot and simmer for 3-4 minutes
      i)      turn salmon skin side up and simmer until salmon is flaky, opaque and pale pink
      j)      turn salmon back to skin side down and check it’s ‘done’ status—should be cooked through, and the skin should be soft enough to be cut with a fork.
      k)    Serve with organic whole-grain, wild or brown rice, with veggie-rich sauce spooned over it.
      l)      Leftover sauce keeps well in the refrigerator for 10-12 days, makes excellent salad dressing, and can also be used to flavor side dishes.

      ENJOY!

    ½ cup or more extra virgin olive oil
    ¼ teaspoon turmeric
    1/3 teaspoon sweet red paprika
    ¼ teaspoon powdered (or chopped fresh) ginger
    a dash (to taste) cayenne pepper
    a pinch of thyme
    >½ tablespoon soy sauce
    ¼ teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
    1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
    ¼ teaspoon lemon zest

  3) OTHER INGREDIENTS:

½ red onion (about 1 and ½ cups) chopped
6 cloves of fresh garlic–chopped
1 and ½ large Heirloom (or other) tomato—chopped
1 cup seaweed or sea-vegetable stalks–chopped
1 fennel bulb and stalks with attached dill strands—chopped
1 whole green, yellow or red bell pepper—chopped
1 carrot—chopped
2 baby bok-choy, or 3 big kale or chard leaves—sliced—optional
1 whole zucchini—sliced & quartered

FreeRangeClub.com has brought out the importance of the ongoing urban organic farming movement in articles and videos. Colleges, High Schools and, even the Boys and Girls Clubs of America have planted organic gardens and instituted programs to teach their students to grow, cook and eat foods made with organic vegetables, herbs and fruits.

This movement has extended to the adult population, and particularly to marginalized urban neighborhoods, where fast foods have been the food of choice, and fruits and vegetables have not been an important staple of their diet.

We would like to point out an article from the San Jose Journal, reprinted in the New York Times, which talks of how a nonprofit group is helping families in low income, mostly Latino neighborhoods of San Jose, California grow their own organic produce.

By Catharine L. Kaufman (a.k.a. The Kitchen Shrink)

Edited by Dina Eliash Robinson

Every October, pink ribbons and shop window decorations herald its designation as Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Some people carry the reminder year-round—as did a hot hunk I recently noticed sporting a pink ribbon tattoo on his bulging bicep. He claimed it as a symbol of solidarity with his Mom who was battling the disease. Proliferation of pink-hued objects, unfortunately signals not only a growing membership in the breast cancer club, but the disease’s indiscriminate spread across ethnic, racial, age and economic groups. While Asian women are still more sparsely represented, and men hardly at all, this good news is offset by the ever-younger age of those being diagnosed.

We suspect pollution and the use of toxic chemicals in our foods to be the main culprits in the epidemic of all types of cancer, and worry that we have little or no control over our environment—no matter how conscientiously we recycle, save water, conserve energy and follow other green practices. But I’m here to tell you that this is not the time to throw in the towel or rely on a lucky roll of the dice by Fate.

Contrary to doomsayers, we do have some powerful self-protective weapons at our disposal and most of them consist of lifestyle choices we make—food selection and handling being the most effective. Ancient cultures relied on that for their health, even before old Hippocrates advised using food as medicine.

Being both the daughter of, and a survivor of breast cancer, I can say with the assurance of years of experience that a toxin-free, nutrition-rich diet can tip the balance in favor of good health. Other lifestyle choices—such as exercise, meditation, massage and/or chiropractic adjustments—also tend to strengthen the immune system, boost resistance and promote healing.

Years ago, when I traded a law practice for a career as a syndicated food columnist and healthy gourmet cooking teacher, little did I know that someday it would help me recover from, and stay free of breast cancer—as well as keep my family happy, healthy and well-fed.

So, while you arm yourself with tools provided by personal trainers, meditation gurus and other helpers, I’ll provide you with the edible components of your healthy lifestyle. I’ve put it in the form of an easy to follow primer of foods proven to be powerful factors in both cancer prevention and the expediting of post-treatment healing process. For optimum nutrition and protection from toxins, I highly recommend using organic products.

• Grapes—especially the red, purple and black varieties—come loaded with antioxidants called bioflavonoids that pack a powerful anti-cancer punch. Grape skin itself is a rich source of reservatrol, which blocks the production of certain enzymes known to stimulate the proliferation of cancer cells. The beneficial effects of these compounds might be gained by drinking small amounts of red wine. Although some studies warn that a daily intake of more than one glass of wine could actually increase the risk of breast cancer.

(* Note: Bioflavonoids—found in most fruits and vegetables that also contain Vit. C—are also known as Vitamin P, which when combined with Vit. C, help keep the thin walls of capillaries (small blood vessels) safe from tears and bleeding. This combo also has antioxidant, anti-viral & anti-inflammatory qualities; it curbs allergic histamine release and helps the body to absorb iron.)

• Cruciferous vegetables like broccoli, cauliflower, turnip greens, kale, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and the new super-nutritious BroccoSprouts contain indole-3-carbinol which has been found to fake out cancer cells by morphing estrogen into a more diluted, and thus harmless form.

• Carrots—Beta-Carotene Celebrities.  Follow Bugs Bunny’s example and make beta-carotene-packed foods part of your diet to lower your breast cancer risk.  Baby carrots—the tender, thin ones that still sport their leafy tops—contain the most easily absorbed form of this essential nutrient, which also keeps your eyesight sharp. Eat them raw as snacks or cut them into salads.  But whatever you do, please don’t confuse them with the bagged or boxed impostor stumps falsely labeled “baby carrots,” which are mere machine-whittled parts of tough old carrots. Don’t be fooled into buying them just because they’re handy or might look cute in a stew. They tend to be too expensive for cooking anyway—it’s best to use mature and un-mutilated carrots for your hot dishes.

• Garlic by any other name—such as “Stinky Rose”—is just as fabulous a shield against viruses, bacteria, inflammation, hypertension (it’s a natural blood-thinner), breast cancer cells and even the occasional vampire. 
Raw garlic is loaded with allicin, a potent sulfur compound with immune boosting properties.

• Fabulous Fungi include some mushroom varieties known for their disease-fighting qualities. Shiitake, maitake and reishi, for example, contain polysaccharides that have been shown to boost the immune system, as well as lectin—a protein that is said to keep cancer cells in check.

• Seafoods Rich in Omega-3 Fatty Acids are under stress from over-fishing at this time, but it’s worth looking or waiting for supplies of wild-caught cold-water fish (no bottom-feeders, please) at your supermarket’s fishmonger.  For optimum health benefits, nothing beats wild-caught salmon, sardines (with their Omega-3 and calcium-rich skin and bones intact, and preferably canned in pure olive oil!), herring (pickled in wine, not cream) and anchovies. Seaweed and other oceanic veggies are also treasure-troves of nutrients—such as beta-carotene, vitamin B-12 and the fatty acid chlorophylone, another defensive weapon against breast cancer.

• Seeds and Nuts are also Omega-3 powerhouses—and thus good substitutes for people who don’t care for fish. Flaxseed is known as an excellent Omega protector of healthy breasts, especially since it contains high levels of lignans and anti-inflammatory compounds. Same goes for nuts (go for almonds and walnuts) and seeds–especially pumpkin, sunflower and sesame seeds.

• Good Fats’ undisputed king is the smooth, delicious and heart-healthy olive oil, which is one of he main ingredients that keep breast cancer rates the lowest in the world among women following a Mediterranean diet. While grapeseed oil stands up better to high-heat cooking and baking than the more delicate olive oil, it is the latter that’s preferred by true gourmets in foods cooked at medium temperatures, as well as heatless on salads and as the dipping sauce for fresh bread, served in some Italian restaurants. Oils pressed from avocadoes, truffles and sesame seeds add not only exotic flavors to salads and other cold dishes, but many health benefits as well.

Canola oil is low in saturated fat, has a high proportion of monounsaturated fat and, since most of the toxic uric acid has been bred out of the rapeseed plant from which canola is derived, this oil is now considered a safe choice for cooking and baking by even the venerable Mayo Clinic.  While butter is saturated fat and no stranger to cholesterol, an occasional small dollop on toast or in food adds nutrient and flavor in exchange for negligible or no harm.

A loud alarm clangs, however, when it comes to the trans-fat monsters that still lurk, alas, in most commercially produced baked goods, as well as in processed and fried foods—thanks to the FDA’s loophole-weakened ‘ban.’ So for prevention, health maintenance and the healing process, my advice to everyone is to stay clear of partially or fully hydrogenated vegetable oils, margarines and other trans-fats.

• “Somewhere Over the Rainbow”—hummed under the breath or remembered from Oz—is an easy way to remind yourself to eat the colors of the rainbow. Red, yellow, green, purple and multicolored peppers, lycopene-rich tomatoes (even more effective when cooked), yams, squashes, spinach, blueberries, pomegranates, cherries and other fruits, berries and veggies contain powerful antioxidants that protect the body from harmful free radicals and toxins.

• Sunshine Is An Indispensable Life-Source with bone-building and health-protective qualities that in recent years have been overshadowed by warnings about its danger as a cause of epidermal damage ranging from skin cancer to liver spots, freckles and wrinkles. The resulting panic has had people lather up with sun-screening lotions, block rays with special clothes, hats and even gloves, or forsake daylight altogether, venturing out only after sunset like some spectral ghosts.

Supplementation with Vitamin D—and more recently, with Vitamin D3—combined with moderate skin exposure to sunlight, has had limited success in reversing, to some degree, osteoporosis and other ailments caused by sun-deprived living. But it’s not enough.

So amp up your immune system with such Vitamin D-rich foods as organic eggs, wild-caught mackerel, salmon, sardines, herring, kippers, roe, cod liver oil (if you can stomach it), organic butter and D3-fortified breakfast cereal. Oh yes, don’t forget to walk, bike or do other weight-bearing exercises to bring your bones up to healthy strength.

• Tea, the Oldest New Health Drink. Had we paid attention to the Chinese, Indians and Brits, it wouldn’t have taken us this long to find out how healthy this versatile beverage is. Although green tea is now the rage, with white tea a recent snobby divergence and twig tea an ancient favorite, the once ubiquitous black tea is gaining popularity now that it’s strong bona fides as a health-booster have been rediscovered.

While all teas (except for certain so called ‘herbal’ or ‘fruit’ infusions) contain antioxidants, the justly praised green tea is a source of polyphenol antioxidant, known as a potent foe of certain cardiovascular and neurodegenerative diseases. Polyphenol antioxidant is also found in such phytonutrient-rich foods as legumes, apples, berries, grapes, cantaloupes, broccoli, cabbage, parsley and onions. When grown organically, these legumes, veggies and fruits are as well equipped to fight a variety of cancers as the highly regarded green and other teas. Especially the organic varieties, which taste better and are free of agricultural and customs-sprayed chemicals.

Black teas are preferred for their high octane caffeine kick; green, white and twig teas provide a gentle pick-me-up that still lets you rest at night; and chamomile, along with several other soporific herbal beverages, are better than any sleeping pill at bedtime. Decaf tea varieties offer good flavors, full antioxidant protection, but minus stimulation. A splash of almond milk adds body and a richer taste to most teas. A teaspoon of honey transforms them into throat-soothing balm, which can be enhanced with lemon for an extra Vitamin C protection.

• The Two Faces of Soy. Nothing is more versatile and adaptable to low-cholesterol nutrition than tofu, a most nutritious product derived from the humble soybean. Edamame makes a fine appetizer for any meal, though I bet hardly anyone around the table would associate this delicious celadon-green legume with soy. Another great soy impostor is the smoky, meat-like tempeh products in some grocery stores, which, in the hands of a creative cook, could fool the most rabid enemy of any food labeled ‘healthy.’

Of course, I can only vouch for all this being healthy and nutritious fare when made of organic soybeans, not with the genetically modified (GMO) ‘Frankenstein” version. What’s more, even organic soy products have become highly controversial when connected to the issue of estrogen-affected cancers. Advocates claim that the isoflavinoids contained in soy work as an estrogen decoy to block the body’s stronger estrogens that stimulate cancer cells. Opponents whose research indicates that soy’s phyto or plant estrogen may actually feed the growth of cancer cells, advise patients to eliminate this legume completely from their diet.

Unfortunately, this is easier said than done. Mainly because, as a government subsidized crop (along with wheat and corn), more soy is grown than the market can absorb. The glut then motivates commodities traders to find new, profitable uses for soybeans. You’ll notice that almost all bottled salad dressings, mayonnaise, breads, cereals and other packaged foods contain soy oil—one of the few fabrications that can actually make even organic soy unhealthy. Soy flour and other products derived from this legume also show up in various foods—some not even flagged on labels, thanks to faulty food-labeling regulations—making it impossible for a large and increasingly vulnerable segment of the population (especially breast cancer survivors) to protect their health.

Four pieces of advice: Buyer beware; keep track of new research on the soy-cancer connection; don’t let the quest for zero soy deprive you of essential nutrients; and use commonsense in balancing benefits versus risk.

• Herbs and Spices lend more than flavor to foods. Take the Mighty Parsley—touted by the American Institute of Cancer Research as effective in protecting cells from cancer, due to its rich store of Vitamin C, iron and flavonoids. Turmeric, the Indian spice that lends its color to curry, not only intensifies the flavors of cooked foods, but its active ingredient, curcumin, helps prevent the joint inflammation that makes rheumatoid arthritis so painful and, according to Rutgers University researchers, may slow the spread of prostate cancer. Cinnamon puts the brakes on leukemia cancer cells, lowers bad cholesterol and blood sugar, among other benefits. Rosemary, sage, basil, red paprika and countless other health-guardians are waiting on your spice rack to help you stay healthy.

• Gangbuster Cancer-Fighting Foods. Cruciferous vegetables like broccoli and cabbage pack a mighty punch against the big-C. First as a preventive shield, second as an aggressive warrior, and third as a healing agent that helps rebuild cells damaged by drugs and radiation.

Arm your immune system with the following recipe—made even a better protector when teamed up with grilled wild-caught salmon and followed by a leisurely stroll in the sunshine. Bon appetit.

Brocslaw

(Use organics if at all possible. They taste better and save on doctor bills)

1 16-ounce bag of shredded broccoli or two heads of fresh chopped broccoli

1/2 small red pepper, diced

1/2 small yellow pepper, diced

1/2 small red onion, diced

2 scallions, thinly sliced

2 carrots, grated

1/4 cup of slivered almonds

2 cloves fresh garlic

6 cherry tomatoes or 6 black olives—for garnish

Dressing

1 cup of mayonnaise made with olive oil

2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon of sesame oil

2 tablespoons of brown sugar

Pinch of wasabi powder—or cancer-fighting cayenne pepper

Salt (optional) and cayenne pepper to taste

In a large bowl, combine the veggies. In a separate bowl, whisk the dressing ingredients. Toss with the slaw until evenly distributed. For decoration, top with the almond slivers and either the cherry tomatoes or olives—or both.

E-mail your questions and/or comments to me at kitchenshrink@san.rr.com, or to our blog editor at dinatalk@gmail.com.

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